Betwixt

 Sailing slowly south of Salvador;  short day hops visiting islands and going up rivers, we went aground, twice in one day.   Shortly after pulling anchor in a narrow creek between the mangrove covered islands one morning, we hit a sandbank and went aground.  The tide fell quickly and we resigned ourselves to the six hours of keeling over.  Deja vu.  We were on our way up the river to see a waterfall.  Cachoeira de Tremembe.  Since Salvador there has been very little change in the low landscape of the coast, so what can this waterfall be?  Early afternoon we were afloat again and set off upriver.  At sunset we got to the small tributary of Tremembe River.  The waterfall was just 800m up the river.  We will take the kayak there in the morning.  Motoring to set the anchor, the engine exhaust pipe broke.  A job for the next day. During the night, John jumped up and looked out - I think we have a problem.  ...

 Itaparica was the first stop from Salvador, 20km 3 hours sail to the island across the bay of Todos dos Santos.  The gear lever broke as we arrived at the pontoon;  marina staff leapt onto the boat to help us.   Our plan was to use a sandbank near the marina to clean the boat hull.  Get into position and go aground at high tide and wait for the water to subside and the boat keels over.  We knew the theory.  In reality, it was nail biting. Going aground is not normal;  keeling over to 45 deg not normal. When will we stop falling over?!  Then get into waist deep water and scrub.  After six hours the tide rises.  Next day repeat for the other side.  The part above the anti fouling water line was encrusted with algae and barnacles.  Tied bow to at Itaparica marina, rope ladder to get off and on.     Mineral water fountain on Itaparica Washing the port hull on a sandbank at Itaparica

Salvador bustles with culture, colour and music.  We berthed at the marina near the city centre with ferries on one side, fishing boats on the other, and party boats all around. Enjoyed the daily entertainment and the vibe.  A month went by easily.  Recovering from the ocean crossing.   Getting equipment for the boat and supplies is complicated.  English is just not spoken.  A tax ID number is needed for all online transactions.  Finally got a few things needed including to fix the water maker, again. Betwixt in the Salvador city lights The iconic Elevador which takes you to the Upper City  was unfortunately closed for repairs. The Inclinado to go up city Pelourinho in Upper City One of the 365 churches in Salvador View of sunset from Betwixt, everyday Sunset beach scene in Barra View of the city from Betwixt, Brazil Naval Base in foreground.