Living on a boat in Salvador

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 Always wanted to experience big city living.  Life in South Africa was living in the burbs, followed by life on a plot (5 acre agricultural holding) in Johannesburg.  Here we are 8 months in the city of Salvador (where?!) on a 35ft boat on Pier A of Terminau Nautico in the Bay of All Saints.  

On Pier A are sailing boats, Brazilian and foreign, staying for a few days, or a few weeks if repairs are needed.  This harbour is where all the action is.  The Brazil navy can be heard all day, whistling and PA addressing their boys in white.  The passenger ferry boats crossing daily to various islands in the Bay of All Saints.  The schooners which do touring cruises to the islands and down the coast, sharing their music as they come and go.  On Pier B are the motor boats, for fishing trips, or booze cruises, or both.  Just around the corner are the big hulking cruise ships, pouring out tourists, and lighting up the night.

Salvador is a city of art and Afro-Brazilian culture.  It is a beautiful city, 476 years old.  It has Portuguese Baroque architecture, seen in public buildings and churches.   The Pelourinho neighbourhood is the historic heart of Salvador, with cobblestone alleys and colourful buildings.  The amazing Church and Convent de Sao Francisco with its lavish gold gilt work and intricate wooden sculptures is a popular attraction.  Fortunately we visited this church a few months ago, as recently a section of the ceiling fell down, killing a tourist, so the church is closed.    Pelourinho is a 5 minute walk from our marina;  just up the Elevador.  This iconic elevator conveniently joins downtown commercial to Pelourinho and re-opened just in time for carnival.   

Salvador's carnival was a 6 day affair at the end of February.  It is a moving music circuit with trios which are trucks pulling a music stage.  There are 2 circuits with a program of music bands which entertain 2 million revellers daily.  One way of enjoying the festivities is in camarotes viewing stands along the circuit, with food and drink all in the price.  The other is buying a tshirt of the band you like and following the truck/stage, which also provides food and drink, around the circuit.  Or you can go as pipoca popcorn which is the free street party.  Tip: wear ear plugs.  I could hear the music from our boat in the marina.  It was free.

Hospital and medical appointments are still dominating our days.  This bustling city is a good distraction. If living on a boat is being part of your surroundings, then we are immersed into this city,  the Good, the Bad, and the Beautiful. 



Evenings on the boat, Elevador in the background.



The marina, Pier A is where Betwixt is tied up.  The Brazil Navy is the white building.


Colourful street of Pelourinho


The golden church of Sao Francisco




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