River Paraguacu Family Adventure

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 Our family set off early in the Baia de Todos os Santos heading north to catch the tidal current going into the River Paragaucu.  The river snakes inland through a mixture of tropical vegetation, ochre coloured rocks and mangrove shores.  This is a different Brazil;  no tourism, a few small fishing boats, including saveiros, the traditional Bahian wooden sailing boat.  The saveiros were sailing, we were motoring.

At midday we reached Sao Francisco do Iguape.  The crew made light work of anchoring and pumping up our kayak to go ashore and visit the Convento de Santo Antonio, a beautiful old monastery, now in ruins originally constructed in the Baroque style with a Rococo frontispiece.  About 350 years old.  With two techie sons, it was natural that my drone which was packed away in cobwebs, would be taken out, and sent up to explore the convent grounds.  

Then we headed another 5 miles upriver which had depths of as little as 2m.  That is not much water under the keel!  We reached our anchorage for the night at the village of Santiago do Iguape.  Another beautiful old church stood at the waters edge.  The original church was about 400 years old, with some restoration in progress. The neat village was centred around a communal soccer and sport ground with youngsters playing, and live music starting the Saturday night entertainment.  Bruce spotted a comet in the fading sunset as we paddled back to the boat after a beer at the local pub.  This beautiful peaceful anchorage was priceless!

We left with the current early next morning.  There is an island just outside the river mouth in the bay called Ilha do Medo - the island of fear, which has a few morbid and terrifying legends.  It sounded like a good place to have a swim.  As we were now safely back in the bay, John went to rest in the cabin, and the crew were in charge.  

We went aground, trying to get close to the island.  John tried all the tricks to get us off the sandbank;  weight up front (me) with Matthew and Bruce in the water (chest deep) pushing the boat, keeling with the spare anchor off to the side.  No success.  Resigned ourselves to the 4 hour wait for the tide to rise again.  Naturally we cleaned and inspected the exposed side of the boat while we waited.

 Finally the tide rose and gently we bobbed off the sandbank.  The wind came up and the Genoa and Main sails were unfurled, and we were sailing.  Then soon after the captain gave orders to get ready for a tack, we noticed the comet near the horizon by the setting sun, and our trailing fishing line had a bite.  All hands on deck!  Comet captured on camera, fish landed, and a perfect tack.  Sunset sailing at its best. 



Church at Santiago



Hammock between the masts


Peaceful night at anchor at Santiago




 Convento do Santo Antonio

Interesting Inca style plinth


Scarlet Ibis in the bush, hard to miss


Taking a break in the shade, at an angle




Comet in the sunset










































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